Celebrating a birthday

My birthday is at the beginning of the year, and for some reason that time of year does not seem to be a popular time to have babies because very few of my friends have a birthday at that time. The result as a child was that while all the other kids had birthday parties I did not because everyone was away enjoying the sun with their parents.  Now this event is celebrated with either someone special or with friends and family.  This year it was mixture.  My sister and her husband celebrated with me the day before because Bev and I were going out for dinner to a well-reviewed restaurant called The Ortega Fish Shack.  

Food and wine are one of my many passions so eating at a very good restaurant is a treat particularly if I can take one of my aged wines.  

Bev had booked a month in advance as the last time we tried to go for Bev’s birthday it had been fully booked.  This time Bev was making sure.  A day beforehand she confirmed and asked if we could take a bottle Grand Puy Lacoste 1996, a fifth growth Bordeaux wine from Paulliac.  I figured it might be ready to drink and what better occasion to drink it. Their response was yes but there would be a corkage fee  which we were very happy to pay.

We arrived at a little after 7pm and were shown to one of the best seats in the restaurant next to the window so that when not distracted by the food or each other we could watch the street life.  After we were seated we were asked if we would like a glass of bubbly to which we both replied yes (much to our delight and surprise this was complimentary as we discovered later).  

The meal was delicious.  The wine was stunning and has to be one of the best red wines I have had.  Despite being nearly twenty years old it was still perfumed and Bev said she could have smelled it all night it was so good.  I find it hard to describe the bouquet (as they say in wine circles) but I will give it a go; there was a hint of violets, maybe some cassis, and an indescribable smell that spoke of age.  The palate or taste was ethereal; it was both soft and long with an aftertaste that lingered for a long time after I had swallowed it.  I could have drunk two bottles of it but one was enough and we lingered over it savouring every drop which was probably best way to have it.  

Remarkably the wine complemented the  main course where the flavours were sufficiently powerful enough to cope with the weight of the red wine. The menu is mainly fish as the name of the restaurant would suggest.  There is a lovely story in the front of the menu of where they got the name from. 

We started with an entrée beautifully done prawns (nod to the Kiwi/Aussie) which we shared.  For mains we both had fish, mine was pan fried Alfonsino with mash, spinach and walnuts.  It was really good somewhat like blue cod but able to take stronger flavours.  Bev had roaster snapper with kumera ginger mash and blue vein risotto.  It was something I thought would go with fish but it did very well.  As noted above the wine complemented it all very well.

We finished our meal by having a glass of dessert wine to accompany our dessert. 

The service was brilliant understated and slightly informal but perfect.  

 It was a memorable meal to finish what had been a very nice day of people contacting me to wish me a happy birthday. 

Another trek and another mode of transport: The Rimutaka Cycle Trail

Three years ago Bev asked me if I would like to do the Central Otago Rail Trail.  Having heard that it was rather stunning  and because I had not really cycled for many years I agreed that I would accompany her.   This fitted with my outlook on life – to cram in as many adventurous and sometimes risky experiences as possible and at the same time provide me with something  which was thoroughly enjoyable and memorable. It did (see Blog)!  The consequence was that about a year ago Bev bought me a bike in Sydney so I could go cycling with her.  The first few times were challenging to say the least but the result was that I bought a bike in Wellington to ensure I could keep up with Bev when I visited.  

Wellington is renowned for its wind and for those who don’t know it, the challenging terrain for cycling.  

There are some wonderful trails on which to ride if you are a masochist and don’t mind steep and treacherous gradients. Those trails are the domain of the mountain bikers.  More recently a new trail has been completed called the Rimutaka Cycle Trail which joins several trails together including the Hutt River trail.  

Bev and I had decided that we would do one day of the trail and it was suggested in the material  we read that it was possible to do Petone to Featherston in one day.  So we settled on 3 January  2015 to do  it. This was because trains and the cycle shop would be open and even more importantly the wind was gentle southerly which would help us on our ride northwards. 

Our friends M & A had loaned us a bike which had not been out for some time.  Unfortunately the chain broke when it was being tested and with it being public holidays it was going to be difficult to get it repaired.  In the meantime another friend loaned us her mountain bike.  

On the day of the big journey I took the bike to a bike shop where they joined the chain together and then told me they could not guarantee the repair as the chain was rather worn.  This caused a bit of consternation and in the end Bev decided to take the other bike.  It also delayed our departure and it was not until 10am that we were on the train to Petone to start our journey.  The train is quite well set-up for bikes with a place to put them and straps to hold them in place. 

We had to get to Featherston by 5:25pm to get the train back but I figured with our level of fitness this would not be a particular problem.  We had plenty of time and the Hutt River part of the trail was going to be easy.  

At the beginning: Easy riding on the stopbank near Petone

The ride along the Petone foreshore was wonderful with a superb view toward the Wellington and the harbour entrance.  The ride up the ride up the Hutt River was easy and pleasant with all of it being off road.  I even met a friend walking along the path.  We got to Upper Hutt by about 11:30am.  After that point the trail got a bit more challenging.  Bev on her mountain bike found that she had more control compared to me on my hybrid.  A couple of times I nearly came off on some of the steeper parts whereas Bev had more stability.  

Lunch by the Hutt River at Maymorn

We stopped for lunch at about 1:00pm noting that from Upper Hutt to our lunch stop had taken us almost as much time as the previous 20 kilometres from Petone to Upper Hutt.  It was rather nice by the river and both us  enjoyed the respite from the overgrown sections of the track where blackberry bushes threatened to rip clothing and skin. 

We continued to Maymorn Road where I got confused.  The maps that I consulted were not very explicit on how to get to the next part of the Trail.  We headed into the Kaitoke Regional Park and looked at map there.  It seemed to suggest that we should carry on State Highway 2 for 500 metres to start the Rimutaka Trail.  So we backtracked a couple of kilometres and then carried on up the road but I could see no obvious trail and it was getting very steep.  After 600 metres or so I suggested we return to where I had last seen a map.  It suggested we needed to go through Kaitoke Park.  By this stage time was marching on and I thought we would be hard pressed to make the train from Featherston.  On the other hand we still had over three hours before we needed to be there and it had only taken us around three and half hours to get as far as we had.  After some discussion we biked into the park again and studied the map.  It suggested the trail continued  somewhere near the Te Marua Lakes.  Finally after more climbing we found the entrance.  By that time the muscles in my legs were screaming and I did not want climb another hill as some of it looked like it necessitated pushing the bike. 

 

The decision was made to do the route to Featherston another day.  Not only that Bev was hanging out for a hokey pokey ice-cream at the Te Marua shop.  It was with some relief that we freewheeled back to Te Marua.  The time out for the ice-cream was wonderful to not only provide a bit of energy but relief to the bottom as well.

A rest by the river

The confluence of the Akatarawa and Hutt rivers

We retraced our steps to Upper Hutt but took a different route from Birchville finally getting to Upper Hutt around an hour later.  Furthermore we saw a train sitting at the station which we hurried on to as it looked like it was about to leave  - and two minutes later it did.  By this stage we were very happy to be sitting down and heading toward home.  The guard greeted everyone who boarded and checked or sold tickets.   The only downside getting to Wellignton was ending the ride with a long uphill climb back to my home in Kelburn.  

I have since studied the map and discovered that we should have followed Maymorn Road for a kilometre or two.  That would have connected us to the trail.  A pity there was no obvious signposting to indicate the route from Te Marua.  If we had realised that we would have made the train in plenty of time as we had four hours to complete that part of the ride.  We would have covered around 70 kilometres instead of the sixty kilometres.   Next time! 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing or how to compensate for Christmas excesses

Last year several days after Christmas 2013 we had planned to do the Tongariro Crossing but gale force winds and rain forced a cancellation of our plans which we then resurrected for 2014 after Christmas.  The morning after Bev, the Kiwi-Aussie, arrived on the late night flight into Wellington, we traveled to Turangi via Greytown to avoid traffic jams that happen just after Christmas at Otaki. 

The weather forecast for the 29th did not bode well with a prediction of rain in the afternoon and cloud all day.  However in contrast to the previous year the winds were forecast to be light.

On the way to Turangi Bev called her cousin (with whom we had arranged to stay before and after the tramp) to inform her of our arrival time and while we were in Greytown we got a text back asking if I could cook trout.  A minor panic ensued on my part as I had never cooked fresh trout but on looking up trout on the Cuisine magazine website and finding it was a bit like salmon to cook we collected some ingredients at the local supermarket.

The trout was cooked very simply like salmon and was wonderful. 

While we were eating it started raining and during the night I woke up to heavy rain on the roof which had me thinking that we were not going to be able to do the walk.  However when we arose at 6am it had cleared away and there were very very small blue patches of sky.  That was enough for me to go. 

We drove to Ketetahi where we took a shuttle to the beginning of the track at Mangatepopo.  To get there we took the main road toward National Park and then turned off on to a very rough gravel road on which we bounced our way to the beginning of the track in a cloud of dust.  Apparently every day someone manages to leave the road as result of going too fast.  The Tongariro Shuttle is run by a local who was one of the first to set up a shuttle service 13 years ago.  Since then   many others have established themselves too, so in addition he has set up a security car park which now seems to be his main source of income.  It was a great way to go and relatively cheap.  The van had done many kilometres and had been through three gear boxes and two engines, so it was rather beaten up . 

Commencing the walk

By this stage the cloud had cleared away to become a relatively nice day although quite cool.  Since I last did the walk some fifteen to twenty years ago it has changed quite considerably.  At the track beginning there is a shelter and it seems to be further away from the Mangatepopo Hut than I recall. 

Winding through the Mangatepopo Valley

One thing we noticed was the number of people on the track. This was despite poor weather which had apparently put a few people off.  The track winds its way gently through low scrub.  We were amazed at the lack of gear people had including one person who set off along the track in jandals and no water.  We did not see him returning so presume he must have walked the whole track in that gear.  Others, like us, were carrying the recommended alpine gear even though, as it turned out, much of  it was not necessary to wear that day. 

A pit stop at Soda Springs

At Soda Springs (about 45 minutes into the walk we stopped and had a drink.  There were toilets and many of us took advantage of them.  Ahead of us was the climb to the South Crater.  The last time I did it we seemed to scramble up a very steep area climbing up rocks. This time the path clearly took a different but easier route.  It took us about half an hour to climb to the south crater.  The views on the top of the ridge were great and I even surprised myself by being able to keep a good pace up the path.  However, compared to twenty years ago I was much slower – age is clearly catching up. 

Why am I smiling "its hard work". 

It was an easy walk along the floor of the South Crater for the next climb to the top of Red Crater.  Now that was a much more difficult climb.  The first part to the ridge was steep but the footing was good.  On the ridge there were some nice views toward the east and many people like us spent a bit of time admiring the view.  Then it was the climb to the top.  The first hurdle was to get around a rock which had a chain to help climb up it.  I managed to stab myself in the knee with my pole due to the awkward way I grabbed at the chain.  I was very stoic about it as all kiwi men are about minor injuries.  The next 200 metres or so were a real scramble over loose rock where

Thank goodness that climb is over - cresting Red Crater

sometimes it was two steps forward and step back.  Finally we got to the top with me puffing and Bev seemingly less distressed than me.  However, it was very satisfying to pass a number of younger people (there is a still a competitive streak in me). 

Only 3.5 hours to go - sign at Red Crater

We rested at the rim of the crater and looked back.  Below us were tiny figures snaking their way across the South Crater.  In the background Ngauruhoe loomed darkly over us - a perfect volcano. (The first time I did this walk I had included a trip up Ngauruhoe which was challenging to say the least)

We watched people’s relief as they got to the top with everyone stopping for a time to catch their breath, snack and have some water. 

Once again, on our feet, having looked at the reminder that we were on a volcano, we walked to the edge of the crater to look at the Red Crater, (it is very red!), before continuing the ascent to the top point. 

Climbing to the top of Red Crater

Below us were the Emerald Lakes which are just gorgeous, particularly on a bright sunny day.  The route down is over loose scoria and it is rather steep.  I watched people picking their way down very gingerly. I had learnt previously that the best way is to stay upright, lean back and carefully run down.  The top part was a bit perilous but it worked.  I explained to Bev what she needed to do but it was scary for her and she slipped over a couple of times.  Part way down the scoria was deeper and easier to secure a footing. I got down very quickly and it was interesting to note those that did it similarly to me were really enjoying the process whereas the faces of others were etched with fear.

Emerald Lakes

"This is not easy" - the precarious walk down

We had lunch at the Emerald Lakes along with a lot of other people.  We spoke to a German woman who commented on how she had never seen anything like it and was enjoying it very much. There were very few New Zealanders on the track, judging by the languages that were being spoken there were French, Spaniards, Scandinavians, North Americans and Asians.  Quite a collection! Both Bev and I are in our early sixties and there were few people over the age of about fifty walking the track, most were in their twenties and thirties with a smattering of families.

The next part of the walk was relatively easy.  There was a fairly easy climb to the Blue Lake, following the south shore before descending to Ketetahi Hut.   We had a wonderful ongoing view of Lakes Rotoaira and Taupo and Mt Pihanga once we got out of the cloud. 

Red Crater - we came down the ridge on the right

As we zig-zagged our way down we suddenly heard a woman behind us calling “runner behind”. We all made way for her and the next thing we saw she was disappearing down the track and into the distance.  She was a busy person needing to constantly call out because there were nose to tail trampers for much of the way down.  While we were walking, thick black clouds formed overhead and we heard the rumble of thunder and crackle of lightening.  This went on for about half an hour with only the odd drop of rain.  However, just after we got to Ketetahi Hut and had endured toilets with a very smelly long drop,  some heavy rain started falling, prompting  a large number of people to either desperately look for their rain jacket or  scurry for the shelter of the hut.  

Rain jacket found!

It took us about 90 minutes to get to the road end and it was a long 90 minutes as there were lots of steps which are in some ways more challenging going down than up.  Despite being reasonably fit, I had muscles that were getting rather tired.  Bev also commented on her low energy levels and vetoed any thought of walking the final 800 metres on a dusty road to our car. 

Fifteen minutes after arriving at the road head, our transport arrived which we gratefully accepted.  Next stop was a very hot mineral pool, but it did the trick of easing tired muscles and inducing a minor state of relaxation. 

The End - Waiting for Transport at Ketetahi Road end

On arriving back at Bev’s cousins’ place we showered and enjoyed a well-deserved bottle of bubbly wine and great food before crashing asleep.  

Reflecting on this tramp and comparing it with the previous times (I had done it about four times with last time probably being fifteen or so years ago) it took me longer, while fit my energy levels are no longer the same.  For instance on the first occasion I did the tramp we climbed Ngauruhoe as well as completing the rest of the track.  Age and blood pressure rising definitely has its effects ones ability.

Introduction

Twelve years ago I moved to Wellington.  When I was asked why I wanted to leave the calm, warm summers of Hamilton for a place renowned for its wind and much cooler temperatures I remarked in an offhand way that I wanted to live on the edge.  What I meant by that was that I was pitching myself into a city where I knew few people, there was going to be lots of wind and many of the times that I had been there it had been cold and sometimes lashed by rain either from the north or from the south.  When I came here in early summer the temperatures were more like early spring in Hamilton and the wind was, of course, blowing.  Little did I know that this new life was indeed to both physically and emotionally a time of living on the edge.

I had not thought at the time that in some ways this was time where I would live on the edge.  Physically we live where the Pacific Plate and the Australian Plates meet making for a very active earthquake zone, there is nothing between Wellington and Antarctica.  

I began working in Human Resources where you seem to be loved by no-one and eventually moved to shorter term roles by contracting.  Halfway during my time here I separated and whole new life began. I started traveling by myself. An experience of renting happened before I bought an apartment. I had a couple of health scares.   Eventually I met a wonderful woman from my past and as at writing we have a commuter relationship because she, inconveniently for me, decided many years ago to relocate to Sydney.

This is an occasional blog about life after sixty and my experience of trying to live my life by having experiences rather than things.  Primarily it will be about the things I do in order to experience as much as I can before the inevitable decline into old age and to that final stage of life, death.  Some of it will be reflections on that process, other parts will be the adventures that I have.
When I go on a more lengthy journey such as travel overseas to places like France I will continue the practice of writing  a separate blog.