Tongariro Alpine Crossing or how to compensate for Christmas excesses

Last year several days after Christmas 2013 we had planned to do the Tongariro Crossing but gale force winds and rain forced a cancellation of our plans which we then resurrected for 2014 after Christmas.  The morning after Bev, the Kiwi-Aussie, arrived on the late night flight into Wellington, we traveled to Turangi via Greytown to avoid traffic jams that happen just after Christmas at Otaki. 

The weather forecast for the 29th did not bode well with a prediction of rain in the afternoon and cloud all day.  However in contrast to the previous year the winds were forecast to be light.

On the way to Turangi Bev called her cousin (with whom we had arranged to stay before and after the tramp) to inform her of our arrival time and while we were in Greytown we got a text back asking if I could cook trout.  A minor panic ensued on my part as I had never cooked fresh trout but on looking up trout on the Cuisine magazine website and finding it was a bit like salmon to cook we collected some ingredients at the local supermarket.

The trout was cooked very simply like salmon and was wonderful. 

While we were eating it started raining and during the night I woke up to heavy rain on the roof which had me thinking that we were not going to be able to do the walk.  However when we arose at 6am it had cleared away and there were very very small blue patches of sky.  That was enough for me to go. 

We drove to Ketetahi where we took a shuttle to the beginning of the track at Mangatepopo.  To get there we took the main road toward National Park and then turned off on to a very rough gravel road on which we bounced our way to the beginning of the track in a cloud of dust.  Apparently every day someone manages to leave the road as result of going too fast.  The Tongariro Shuttle is run by a local who was one of the first to set up a shuttle service 13 years ago.  Since then   many others have established themselves too, so in addition he has set up a security car park which now seems to be his main source of income.  It was a great way to go and relatively cheap.  The van had done many kilometres and had been through three gear boxes and two engines, so it was rather beaten up . 

Commencing the walk

By this stage the cloud had cleared away to become a relatively nice day although quite cool.  Since I last did the walk some fifteen to twenty years ago it has changed quite considerably.  At the track beginning there is a shelter and it seems to be further away from the Mangatepopo Hut than I recall. 

Winding through the Mangatepopo Valley

One thing we noticed was the number of people on the track. This was despite poor weather which had apparently put a few people off.  The track winds its way gently through low scrub.  We were amazed at the lack of gear people had including one person who set off along the track in jandals and no water.  We did not see him returning so presume he must have walked the whole track in that gear.  Others, like us, were carrying the recommended alpine gear even though, as it turned out, much of  it was not necessary to wear that day. 

A pit stop at Soda Springs

At Soda Springs (about 45 minutes into the walk we stopped and had a drink.  There were toilets and many of us took advantage of them.  Ahead of us was the climb to the South Crater.  The last time I did it we seemed to scramble up a very steep area climbing up rocks. This time the path clearly took a different but easier route.  It took us about half an hour to climb to the south crater.  The views on the top of the ridge were great and I even surprised myself by being able to keep a good pace up the path.  However, compared to twenty years ago I was much slower – age is clearly catching up. 

Why am I smiling "its hard work". 

It was an easy walk along the floor of the South Crater for the next climb to the top of Red Crater.  Now that was a much more difficult climb.  The first part to the ridge was steep but the footing was good.  On the ridge there were some nice views toward the east and many people like us spent a bit of time admiring the view.  Then it was the climb to the top.  The first hurdle was to get around a rock which had a chain to help climb up it.  I managed to stab myself in the knee with my pole due to the awkward way I grabbed at the chain.  I was very stoic about it as all kiwi men are about minor injuries.  The next 200 metres or so were a real scramble over loose rock where

Thank goodness that climb is over - cresting Red Crater

sometimes it was two steps forward and step back.  Finally we got to the top with me puffing and Bev seemingly less distressed than me.  However, it was very satisfying to pass a number of younger people (there is a still a competitive streak in me). 

Only 3.5 hours to go - sign at Red Crater

We rested at the rim of the crater and looked back.  Below us were tiny figures snaking their way across the South Crater.  In the background Ngauruhoe loomed darkly over us - a perfect volcano. (The first time I did this walk I had included a trip up Ngauruhoe which was challenging to say the least)

We watched people’s relief as they got to the top with everyone stopping for a time to catch their breath, snack and have some water. 

Once again, on our feet, having looked at the reminder that we were on a volcano, we walked to the edge of the crater to look at the Red Crater, (it is very red!), before continuing the ascent to the top point. 

Climbing to the top of Red Crater

Below us were the Emerald Lakes which are just gorgeous, particularly on a bright sunny day.  The route down is over loose scoria and it is rather steep.  I watched people picking their way down very gingerly. I had learnt previously that the best way is to stay upright, lean back and carefully run down.  The top part was a bit perilous but it worked.  I explained to Bev what she needed to do but it was scary for her and she slipped over a couple of times.  Part way down the scoria was deeper and easier to secure a footing. I got down very quickly and it was interesting to note those that did it similarly to me were really enjoying the process whereas the faces of others were etched with fear.

Emerald Lakes

"This is not easy" - the precarious walk down

We had lunch at the Emerald Lakes along with a lot of other people.  We spoke to a German woman who commented on how she had never seen anything like it and was enjoying it very much. There were very few New Zealanders on the track, judging by the languages that were being spoken there were French, Spaniards, Scandinavians, North Americans and Asians.  Quite a collection! Both Bev and I are in our early sixties and there were few people over the age of about fifty walking the track, most were in their twenties and thirties with a smattering of families.

The next part of the walk was relatively easy.  There was a fairly easy climb to the Blue Lake, following the south shore before descending to Ketetahi Hut.   We had a wonderful ongoing view of Lakes Rotoaira and Taupo and Mt Pihanga once we got out of the cloud. 

Red Crater - we came down the ridge on the right

As we zig-zagged our way down we suddenly heard a woman behind us calling “runner behind”. We all made way for her and the next thing we saw she was disappearing down the track and into the distance.  She was a busy person needing to constantly call out because there were nose to tail trampers for much of the way down.  While we were walking, thick black clouds formed overhead and we heard the rumble of thunder and crackle of lightening.  This went on for about half an hour with only the odd drop of rain.  However, just after we got to Ketetahi Hut and had endured toilets with a very smelly long drop,  some heavy rain started falling, prompting  a large number of people to either desperately look for their rain jacket or  scurry for the shelter of the hut.  

Rain jacket found!

It took us about 90 minutes to get to the road end and it was a long 90 minutes as there were lots of steps which are in some ways more challenging going down than up.  Despite being reasonably fit, I had muscles that were getting rather tired.  Bev also commented on her low energy levels and vetoed any thought of walking the final 800 metres on a dusty road to our car. 

Fifteen minutes after arriving at the road head, our transport arrived which we gratefully accepted.  Next stop was a very hot mineral pool, but it did the trick of easing tired muscles and inducing a minor state of relaxation. 

The End - Waiting for Transport at Ketetahi Road end

On arriving back at Bev’s cousins’ place we showered and enjoyed a well-deserved bottle of bubbly wine and great food before crashing asleep.  

Reflecting on this tramp and comparing it with the previous times (I had done it about four times with last time probably being fifteen or so years ago) it took me longer, while fit my energy levels are no longer the same.  For instance on the first occasion I did the tramp we climbed Ngauruhoe as well as completing the rest of the track.  Age and blood pressure rising definitely has its effects ones ability.